Why? I felt my biking performance has leveled off this spring. Not really getting worse (based on recent races), but not getting any better either. While I would love to use age as the excuse, there are too many folks out there a lot older AND faster than I am, so that that excuse won't fly.
I reviewed plenty of options including SRM, CycleOps, Polar and iBike. I opted for the iBike, mainly because it was the cheapest option. However, I've demonstrated some additionally analysis below.
SRM is clearly the "gold standard" of power meters. It uses technology to directly measure force applied to the cranks making the numbers accurate and the readout responsive. Additionally, you can use the device with different sets of wheels as well. I ruled this option out simply because of cost. Not only does one need to purchase the power meter, some sort of "head" unit as well in order to read the wattage being broadcase.
The PowerTap from CycleOps also continues to receive great ratings. It is a hub unit that replaces the hub of the rear wheel, measuring force applied to the rear wheel. It comes with its own "head" unit. The PowerTap is a little less expensive than SRM. I use a deeper set of rims/wheels for racing than I do for training, so I would have to either purchase two PowerTaps or just train and race on the same wheel all the time. I didn't like this approach.
Polar offers a unit that monitors chain tension to calculate power. It is much less expensive option. A colleague of mine actually has one and is quite happy with it. Reports indicated mixed results with particular challenge noted of getting the unit the correct distance from the chain--consistently.
I decided to try the iBike Pro. It is the least expensive option and adds the least amount of weight to the bike. The downside is that it is calculated power and not measured in a direct sense (using strain gauges). I had tried the iAero wireless with the Remote Wind Sensor (iBike product) last year with mixed results. When it worked, I loved the data. However, I experienced a major problem every single week with it so I returned it. The sad part is that when I was training with it, my cycling dramatically improved. This made me really rethink what worked well on the unit, and what didn't. It came down to two things: 1. the wireless would go out for no particular reason, even when on a trainer (the iAero had a nice feature where it could measure power even on a trainer) and 2. the Remove Wind Sensor would pop out of its socket.
iBike offers roughly four models:
- iBike Sport - basic power functions with current, average, and max of watts and speed. Speedometer is wired.
- iBike Pro - same as Sport model, except data can be uploaded onto your computer for analysis.
- iBike Pro wireless - same as Pro above, but it can capture a heart rate strap and cadence. I didn't want wireless based on my experience with the iAero.
- iAero - same as Pro wireless, but can program custom intervals and use on a trainer.
I did remove my aerobottle (replaced it with a Speedfill) and installed the iBike with a Topeak bar extender to get it away from my aerobars. It has to "see" the wind coming at you while riding. Arms in the aerobars can block its "vision". After riding for two weeks with the iBike Pro, I've relearned some of the quirks. It must stay in the position at which you performed the calibrations. My handlebars slipped down a bit causing the tilt of the unit think I was riding downhill, causing my reported effort to be less than it actually was. OK, so tight then handlebars. Also, temperature can have a huge affect. The unit has "wind" calibration that in actuality senses pressure. I recall now that I have to let the unit acclimate to the environment (not just pull it out of an air conditioned car) in order to have accurate readings.
I'm continuing to learn, but it does make me more keenly aware of my riding effort--which should make me faster.
Train safe!
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